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Two big horned sheep on a rocky outcrop. Fog obscures then trees in the background.

Experience The Great Wilderness Through a Local Lens

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Big-horned sheep | Northern BC Tourism/Ryan Dickie

For all its vast landscapes and diverse wildlife, humans live here, too. The Indigenous Peoples and new residents who call The Great Wilderness home are just as much a part of its story, so who better to recommend the most rewarding hikes, the perfect valley for a cultural deep dive, or the best places for spotting wildlife or seeing the northern lights than those in the know? Meet a few locals who can help enhance your trip with insider tips and unique perspectives.

A lynx in Northern BC | Brandon Broderick

These are the Best Places to Photograph Wildlife

According to Brandon Broderick, 2023 Canadian Geographic Wildlife Photographer of the Year

When Tumbler Ridge-based Brandon Broderick was a kid, he spent summer road trips spotting coyotes, deer, and hawks in the Ontario wilds, from the back seat of the family car. 

“Over the years, my eyes have gotten really good at picking out things,” says Broderick, who parlayed that talent into a career as a photographer specializing in landscapes, nightscapes, and his favourite muse: wildlife.

“The wildlife I like because it’s by far the most challenging type of photography I do,” says Broderick, who researches the best locations, seasons, and times of day to encounter whichever animal he’s keen to spot. “When you do get the photo it makes all the work worth it.” 

Based in Tumbler Ridge and the name behind Brandon Broderick Photography, Broderick captures everything from the smallest pine marten to the mightiest moose through his lens. But the animal he gets most excited about tracking and capturing on camera is the lynx.

“They’re very entertaining to watch,” he says. “I’ve had them curl up a few feet away from me and go to sleep. I’ve heard them purring. I’ve had them let me follow along while they hunt. The fact they’re so elusive makes it that much more special.”

Though it sounds fanciful for visitors to The Great Wilderness to see a lynx, Broderick says sighting wildlife is easier than you might think. In fact, most of his encounters happen on the side of the road from the safety of a car (he rarely brings his gear on hikes because it’s so heavy). He also believes in ethical wildlife photography, so he never calls or baits animals, which can negatively affect their behaviour.

Two caribou on the Alaska Highway in Muncho Lake Provincial Park | Andrew Strain

Broderick recommends the Alaska Highway, which runs from Dawson Creek north to the Yukon border, as a good place to spot moose, bison, foxes, bears, and coyotes, especially during summer months. 

“It’s one of the few highways with shoulders so you can pull off and photograph bison,” he says.

Highway 16 between Smithers and Prince Rupert is good, too, as are secondary highways with less traffic. In The Great Wilderness, animals and nature outnumber people, which is what drew Broderick north in the first place.

“From Tumbler Ridge the biggest problem is picking a place to go. There are hundreds of waterfalls and within an hour I can be in the Rockies,” he says. “The Great Wilderness is a very appropriate name for this area.”

Photographer Ryan Dickie views the northern lights | Ryan Dickie

These are the Best Spots to Chase the Northern Lights

According to Ryan Dickie, Winter Hawk Studios

Born in Port Hardy and raised in Fort Nelson, Ryan Dickie is a member of the Fort Nelson First Nation and the photographer behind Winter Hawk Studios. He shoots landscapes and wildlife, and cultural events across the north that highlight the Dene people

“The main driver behind my work is to showcase our Traditional Territory to the rest of the world,” says Dickie. 

This includes capturing the northern lights, which is some of Dickie’s most engaging work. The aurora happens when energized particles from the sun collide with Earth’s upper atmosphere, painting curtains of colourful light in the night sky that seem to shimmer and shift. The phenomenon can be seen from the first week of August to the second week of May this far north. 

“Lately the northern lights have been really active,” says Dickie. “Some nights you might just see a green halo to the north, and then other nights they’re right overhead, with lots of colour and pace of action.”

Dickie saw them all the time growing up, but it wasn’t until his father passed away that he started seeking them out on purpose. He found watching the aurora a peaceful way to grieve and cope with the loss during those difficult years.

“In our culture we believe the northern lights are connected to our ancestors and our stories, so I found comfort in that,” he says. “I suppose it offered a deeper sense of connection.”

Now, if he sees them, he grabs his camera and heads out.

Some of his favourite places to see the aurora include Stone Mountain Park and Muncho Lake Park, east of Fort Nelson on the Alaska Highway. Located in the Northern Rockies, both provincial parks are high elevation, mountainous landscapes with very little light pollution.

A tent under the northern lights on Summit Peak Trail | Andrew Strain

Parker Lake is also a good spot where the northern lights can reflect off the water. And right in town, the Fort Nelson Demonstration Forest has a trail network with old-growth spruce and aspen trees typical of the boreal forest; Dickie likes capturing these forest sentinels in the foreground when he’s shooting the nighttime show. 

For Dickie, chasing the northern lights—and photographing wildlife or landscapes—is a way to stay connected to the land, and nature is one of the things he loves most about living in Fort Nelson. 

“Culture is tied to the land, and I wanted to be close to it and raise my young family here,” says Dickie. “It’s a very supportive community, and a pretty remarkable part of the province.” 

Exstew Falls near Terrace | Northern BC Tourism/Mike Seehagel

Chasing Waterfalls in The Great Wilderness: The Perfect Digital Detox

According to Mandi McDougall, Wilderness Adventure Owner and Operator

As the owner and operator of two adventure tour companies in Terrace, and a member of the Gitxsan Nation, Mandi McDougall loves taking visitors out into nature.

“Since smartphones have taken over, every time I take somebody to a place where there’s no service, I love watching them change and morph into what they should be,” says McDougall. “People fish or hike and can just be present.”

One place to escape technology is on the water, where she offers fishing trips on the Skeena River and its tributaries through Westcoast Fishing Adventures. Her company specializes in spey casting—a style of fly fishing that allows for longer casts in big bodies of moving water—usually for Steelhead trout (catch and release). 

McDougall’s other outfit, Terradise Eco Tours, takes visitors on custom tours around the region, most often into the backcountry on half day or full day hikes to alpine lakes or waterfalls for a full nature immersion. 

“I’ve always been drawn to clear, cold water,” says McDougall. “The air that you breathe when you’re near fast water—and especially a waterfall—there’s no cleaner air than that. It’s forest bathing, pretty much.” 

Her top-pick waterfall splashes down along the 4.3-km (3-mi) moderate trail to Exstew Falls, a huge falls that spills over a rock face with thundering fury. She takes hikers up to its base to sit in the mist before eating a picnic lunch by the swimming hole. 

Woman kneeling in a river, smiling at the camera while holding a large silver fish
Mandi McDougall pictured with a Steelhead trout, near Terrace | Mandi McDougall

Another pretty waterfall can be found after 3.5 kms (2 mis) on the more strenuous path to Gunsight Lake. Intrepid trekkers can then carry on and tackle the entire 12.9-km (8-mi) out-and-back hike to the turquoise alpine lake that’s surrounded by forest and steep scree slopes. 

McDougall grew up in Hazelton (north of Smithers), but was drawn to Terrace as a young adult by family in the area, and more job opportunities in the larger centre. She’s been in Terrace ever since and appreciates its four seasons and close proximity to nature.

“I absolutely love Terrace. It’s like paradise,” says McDougall. “It’s a super safe place to live and explore.”

Nisga'a carver Calvin McNeil in the Laxgalts'ap Carving Shed | Northern BC Tourism/Christos Sagiorgis

Witness the Cultural Awakening of the Nisg̱a'a Nation Through Stories Carved in Wood

According to Calvin McNeil, Indigenous Wood Carver

Calvin McNeil grew up on Nisg̱a’a Lands (namely the Nass Valley) and knew he would become a wood carver from a young age.

“I was born into it. I come from a long line of carvers,” says McNeil, whose uncles and grandfathers were carvers. “Seeing it throughout my childhood, I naturally wanted to carve.”

For members of the Nisg̱a’a Nation, wood carving is imbued with meaning—the finished pieces are beautiful, but they are much more than works of art. Carvers are also storytellers, so the stylized shapes hewn into wood tell and preserve stories that speak to cultural, community, and nation identity and history. 

“What I love most about carving is that I get to pass the knowledge on. I get to preserve and teach our formlines to the next generations,” says McNeil, a self-taught wood carver who mostly learned from pictures.

Carving formlines—the continuous, tapering lines that are a hallmark of Northwest Coast Indigenous art—are artistic expressions of mother nature, says McNeil. Their curves and whorls might mimic the flow of a river or the shape of a mountain, for example.

The Nisg̱a'a Museum in the Nass Valley | Northern BC Tourism/Mike Seehagel

“We believe we are one with (nature),” says McNeil. “We acknowledge her by showing respect by depicting her in our art and formlines.”

The Nisg̱a’a Nation welcomes visitors to the valley and are eager to share their culture. Take the time to seek out cultural experiences that offer opportunities to connect and learn.

“We are a resilient, highly intelligent, kind, and loving nation,” says McNeil. “Come and witness a cultural awakening.”

VON: Lisa Kadane
Aus: Kelowna

Lisa Kadane ist eine preisgekrönte Journalistin, die seit mehr als zwei Jahrzehnten über Reisen, Outdoorabenteuer, Kulinarik und Cocktails schreibt. Obwohl sie bereits mehr als 50 Länder bereist hat, kann sie von Kanada nicht genug bekommen und liebt es, die Berge, Seen und Täler in der Umgebung ihrer Heimatstadt Kelowna zu erkunden. Lisa Kadane schreibt für eine Vielzahl von Druck- und Onlinepublikationen über British Columbia, darunter CNN Travel, die Vancouver Sun, den Toronto Star, und Fodor’s Travel. Wenn sie nicht gerade im Okanagan wandert oder Ski fährt, verbringt sie Zeit mit ihrem Ehemann, ihren zwei Kindern im Schulalter und ihrem bretonischen Spaniel.

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