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People walking through Whistler Village in winter with snow covered buildings.

Five Unique BC Ski Towns

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Whistler Village in the winter | Leanna Rathkelly

This story was originally published in 2021 and has been updated for the Winter 2023/24 season.

Behind every great ski resort is a mountain town filled with people passionate about the sport. In British Columbia, Canada, that enthusiasm for the mountain lifestyle seeps into experiences off the slopes, whether you’re enjoying a pint of craft beer among locals in Fernie, or learning about the legacy of the 2010 Olympic Winter Games in Whistler.

This winter, BC ski resorts are welcoming travellers who are looking for that unique ski town experience, and who yearn to go deeper into the snowy outdoors. Heed the call of the mountains and head to charming communities with ample powder, vast terrain you’ll have mostly to yourself, and cozy ski-in/ski-out hotels and chalets. 

Dive into fantastic fall lines and mountain culture in these five unique BC ski towns.

Behind every great ski resort is a mountain town filled with people passionate about the sport. In British Columbia, Canada, that enthusiasm for the mountain lifestyle seeps into experiences off the slopes, whether you’re enjoying a pint of craft beer among locals in Fernie, or learning about the legacy of the 2010 Olympic Winter Games in Whistler.

This winter, BC ski resorts are welcoming travelers who are looking for that unique ski town experience, and who yearn to go deeper into the snowy outdoors. Heed the call of the north and head to mountain communities with ample powder, vast terrain you’ll have mostly to yourself, ski-in/ski-out hotels and chalets, and an automatic discount on everything, thanks to a favorable exchange rate for Americans.

Dive into fantastic fall lines and mountain culture in these five unique BC ski towns.

Wide Open at Fernie | Dave Heath

Fernie: Where the 20-cm Rule Rules

When the west winds blow light powder snow into Fernie’s five alpine bowls, don’t be disappointed if the shops close their doors and hang up “Gone Skiing” signs. Such is life in a town whose residents live for skiing and snowboarding at the resort that’s just an eight-minute drive down the road.

That dedication to outdoor lifestyle is everywhere in Fernie, a mining town in BC’s Elk Valley that’s two hours by car from Kalispell, Mont. From the century-old historic brick buildings that line main street (a.k.a. 2nd Avenue), to the welcoming residents happy to share intel on where to find the best powder stashes on the mountain (Snake Ridge), there’s a happy, authentic vibe here that’s hard to replicate.

You’ll be smiling, too, when you experience those 20-plus centimeters (eight-plus inches) of fresh in person (the resort gets, on average, 10 meters or 30 feet of snow each winter). The aforementioned powdery bowls feature terrain that’s a mix of steep chutes and wide, forgiving hero runs that funnel into exciting glades and fast cruisers. The valley is also a good place to ski outside your comfort zone by booking a guided cat-ski tour with a local outfitter, or trying a new sport like fat biking.

Fernie has a growing food scene that includes sushi, curry, and farm-to-table fare, plus locally-owned businesses that have elevated “craft” to new levels. Stop in at Beanpod Chocolate, Gelato and Coffee, one of Canada’s few bean-to-bar chocolate makers. Or visit Fernie Distillers, whose Fernie Fog is a soon-to-be-iconic Earl Grey tea-infused liqueur.

There’s a saying in town that people come to Fernie for the winter, but stay for the summer. While that may be true, it’s also quite possible they stay for the community.

Getting there: Fernie is n 11.5-hour drive from Vancouver, BC, a 4.5-hour drive from Spokane, WA, and a 3-hour drive from Calgary, AB. Alternatively, you could fly into Cranbrook, BC, and drive 1 hour to town.

Sun Peaks Village at Night | Zuzy Rocka, Tourism Sun Peaks

Sun Peaks: Built With Intent for Amazing Days

Those who visit Sun Peaks for the first time are typically in awe of the experience. First Tracks. Dry, fluffy powder. Mountain and lake views. A whopping 138 trails — largely bereft of other skiers — that let them feel like they’ve rented the whole mountain out on nearly every run. It’s a resort community that welcomes visitors and quickly makes them feel at home.

What makes it all so hard to believe is the fact that Sun Peaks, located in BC’s interior 412 kms (256 miles) northeast of Vancouver, is the province’s second-largest ski resort. Its 4,270 acres of perfectly groomed cruisers, open bowls, snowy glades, and steep expert runs are spread over three mountains. The fact that all this powdery goodness isn’t overrun just solidifies its status as a ski Nirvana that’s also a hidden gem.

Here you can make tracks within the Peek-a-boo glades off of the Sundance Chair, hike to the backcountry-like pitches on Gil’s, an expert area on Tod Mountain, or chase the sun on Mt. Morrisey after lunch to soak up the afternoon rays. Then, toast an epic ski day with locals at Bottoms Bar & Grill.

Sun Peaks officially became a mountain resort municipality in 2010. Its 1,400 permanent residents live in the ski-in/ski-out, pedestrian-only, European-inspired village, and their children attend the on-mountain school. In a place that lives and breathes mountain culture, it’s no wonder visitors who maroon themselves in Sun Peaks often return to this authentic ski town. 

Getting there: Sun Peaks is a 5-hour drive from Vancouver, BC, a 6-hour drive from Seattle, WA, and 7 hours 45 minutes from Calgary, AB. Alternatively, you could fly into Kamloops, BC, and get a 45-minute shuttle to the resort community.

Nelson at Dusk | Kari Medig

Nelson: Après-ski in your snow pants

North of the border where Washington meets Idaho you’ll find quirky Nelson, the ski town for Whitewater Ski Resort. This laidback city on the shore of Kootenay Lake boasts a greater percentage of heritage buildings—more than 350—than any other Canadian town west of the Great Lakes. Its dining scene is incredible, too. And it’s just a 45-minute drive to Ainsworth Hot Springs, a natural springs featuring a steamy cave that makes a unique spot for soakers to rejuvenate tired ski muscles.

All of this has earned Nelson top billing on numerous “Best Ski Town” lists for North America. But it’s the town’s dedication to Whitewater and the mountain lifestyle that makes Nelson so endearing. Small but mighty Whitewater has over 2,367 acres of skiable terrain and 623 vertical metres (2,044 feet of vertical). What it lacks in size it makes up for in snow, though—the mountain receives an average of 12 meters (40 feet) of feather-light powder each season. Once you slalom between snow-covered evergreen trees and float over the ski hill’s pillowy meringue drops you’ll be smitten. If you really want to go deeper, sign up for guided ski touring into the surrounding backcountry with a local company.

Though they may be caked with snow, at day’s end your ski pants and goggles will be in good company at any of the city’s three craft breweries and abundance of restaurants, where locals and visitors come direct from the hill with gear in tow. When everyone downtown is still clomping around in uncomfortable boots, there’s no doubt you’re in a bona fide ski town.

Getting there: Nelson is 8 hours 20 minutes from Vancouver, BC, a 3-hour drive from Spokane, WA, or a 7-hour drive from Calgary, AB. Alternatively, you could fly into Kelowna, BC, then rent a car and drive the 4 hours to Nelson. 

Winter in Rossland | Steve Ogle

Rossland: Even teachers play hooky on the hill

Nothing says mountain culture like a town where students who ditch school on a powder day often run into their teachers on the slopes (oops!). But all is forgiven because Rossland is also a town whose public schools include ski days at nearby RED Mountain Resort, which boasts more acres of terrain than the community has permanent residents. All this ski culture awesomeness is just across the U.S.-Canada border, a 2.5-hour drive from Spokane.

Skiing in Rossland started with the gold rush. A miner from Scandinavia, Olaus Jeldness, came west to find his fortune and coincidentally introduced the sport to the region in the late 1800s. In fact, Canada’s first ski competition took place at RED Mountain in 1897. During Rossland’s gold rush days, 42 saloons competed for prospectors’ business. Though that booming city is long gone, in its place you’ll find a welcoming hamlet: The downtown is postcard adorable with brick storefronts, zero stoplights, only one chain restaurant, and plenty of watering holes.

The ski experience has changed as much as the town. RED has grown to include four mountains with freeride terrain. You can glide straight to après-ski at timber-frame Rafters bar, or to your boutique room at stylish The Josie Hotel.

It’s fair to say people no longer come to Rossland to find their material fortune. They come seeking experiential riches, and the mountain, rising behind frost-dusted Rossland like a hooky beacon, delivers.

Getting there: Rossland is 7 hours 45 minutes from Vancouver, BC, a 2.5-hour drive from Spokane, WA, and 7 hours 15 minutes from Calgary, AB. Or, you can fly into Kelowna International Airport and drive for 3.5 hours. 

Steep and Deep at Whistler Blackcomb | Andrew Strain

Whistler: Ski Hard, Play Harder

Located at the base of Whistler and Blackcomb mountains just a two-hour drive from Vancouver, Whistler Village is a pedestrian-only town built in the style of Switzerland’s Zermatt or Italy’s Cervinia. There are restaurants and bars, boutiques, and accommodations ranging from hotels to condos, all located within walking distance of the chairlifts.

After a day carving turns on the more than 8,000 acres of cruisers, tree runs, moguls, and chutes shared between the two behemoth peaks, ski or walk right to your condo and prepare to hit the town. Whistler has one of the best après-ski scenes in Canada. Hit up the slopeside locals like  Merlin’s and the Garibaldi Lift Co., and be sure to make a dinner reservation to avoid disappointment to hot spots such as the Bearfoot Bistro and Araxi Restaurant.

Whistler also boasts culture galore. Take a day off from skiing to soak at Scandinave Spa Whistler, browse the Audain Art Museum with Canadian and Indigenous art and artifacts, or visit the Whistler Museum to learn all about the town’s half-century of mountain culture, including its Olympic legacy.

Getting there: Whistler is a 1.5-hour drive from Downtown Vancouver, a 4.5-hour drive from Seattle, WA, and 11 hours from Calgary, AB. If you’re flying in, you can take a shuttle directly to Whistler Village from the Vancouver International Airport, or rent a car and drive the scenic Sea-to-Sky Highway. 

For more information on how to plan your ski trip to British Columbia visit hellobc.com/ski.

Be sure to check DriveBC before heading out on any road trip and be aware of the winter tire and chain regulations across the province from October 1 to March 31. 

 

 

Revelstoke Mountain Resort | Andrew Strain

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