Mount Edziza: Otherworldly Views and About as Remote as it Gets

“Unmapped inaccessible area.” My eyes were instantly drawn to these words written on a well-patinaed map tacked to the wall of the highly eclectic Tatogga Lake Resort near Iskut in The Great Wilderness of British Columbia. The warning of sorts covered the exact area some friends and I were hoping to travel to the next day: Mount Edziza Provincial Park. While adventure seekers are initially drawn to the remoteness and otherworldly landscapes of Mount Edziza, one quickly finds that the journey is steeped with deeper connections to the land, people, and the timeless stories they weave together.

Hikers adventure through the Spectrum Range | Northern BC Tourism / Angela Percival

Deeply-Rooted Culture

A geologist’s paradise, Mount Edziza in the Spectrum Range showcases a spectacular volcanic landscape that includes lava flows, basalt plateaus, cinder fields, and cones. Mount Edziza itself, peak elevation 2,787 meters (9,144 feet), is a composite volcano consisting of thin basalt flows and a central dome with a glaciated crater nearly 2,500 meters (8,200 feet) in diameter.

Encompassing over 230,000 hectares of the Tahltan Highlands in Northwest British Columbia, the mineral-streaked Mount Edziza is located in Tahltan Nation territory, a vast area that is larger than the country of Portugal. Their culture, language, and stories are deeply rooted in the land, which is home to diverse wildlife and is a source of natural resources, including obsidian. This highly sought-after volcanic glass was so precious that other First Nations travelled from as far away as Alaska and northern Alberta to acquire the sharp stone and it was widely traded down the Coast Mountain Range.

The Tahltan have managed the land in their territory for millennia and their stewardship continues through the establishment of the adjacent Tenh Dẕetle Conservancy, (Ten-thet-luh), which translates to “ice mountain” in the Tahltan language. The wetlands, lakes, and forest to the east of Mount Edziza are home to many protected species, including grizzly bears, moose, caribou, and mountain goats.

Volcanic landscapes in Mount Edziza Provincial Park | Taylor Burk

Off the Beaten Path

I had first heard of Mount Edziza Provincial Park when I drove up the Stewart–Cassiar Highway on my way to Yukon from Vancouver a few years earlier. During the drive, between counting bears on the side of the highway, I started wondering about the area I knew little about at the time. I needed to learn more of the incredible natural diversity, beauty, and historical significance of the park we were, in essence, driving past, but could not see clearly from the road. As I began to research it, what struck me most was the relative difficulty of simply getting there, given that it isn’t all that far off a main highway.

During my initial road trip, I also stopped briefly at Tatogga Lake Resort. I wandered around the lodge, which doubles as a sort of regional museum, sipping a much-needed coffee, inspecting the various curios and taxidermied animals that festooned the walls and rafters of this northern gem. I remember talking to some hikers who had just emerged, starry eyed and slightly exhausted from a 10-day, horse-assisted backpacking trip through the park.

It got my daydreaming juices flowing and I instantly knew it was time to plan a longer visit.

Lush colours lead the way | Taylor Burk

It’s interesting to note that the modern-day experience of getting to the park is not that different than what the historical map conveys: it is not in fact “inaccessible,” but also not easy, and that is where the appeal sat with me.

There are no roads into the park, and access from the road into the main, very rough, trail system involves life altering bushwhacking. My friends and I were somewhat limited on time and wanted to maximize our experience deeper in the park. Being a bit too soft to thrash our way through the boggy bush, we chose to use a float plane for a drop off and pick up, which is how most visitors access the area. While some highly experienced hikers do plan and implement a mission through Edziza, guided expeditions with Edziza Trails and Bear Mountaineering are also available and recommended.

Little Ball Lake | Northern BC Tourism / Andrew Strain

Our Adventure Begins

After a touching and enlightening experience with local Tahltan Guardian, Jarett Quock, above the Stikine River, learning about the historical and cultural importance of the region to the Tahltan, we were even more moved and excited by the opportunity to get to experience a place of such reverence.

The next morning, our plane, a DHC-2 Beaver, showed up. This incredible aircraft has a storied history in Canada, allowing access to many remote parts of the north, which only added to the cultural and nostalgic feeling of the trip we were about to embark on. Our journey was becoming richer by the minute.

We loaded up the vintage plane, which I am sure would be worthy of a novel itself if we could unfurl the stories of the characters who had been aboard it. Seconds after takeoff, we were in awe of the constantly changing landscape and indescribable beauty of the rivers, lakes, plateaus, ridges, glaciers and peaks we soared over. When the Spectrum Range finally came into view, it was even more stunning than expected. Formed from lava flows and centuries of erosion, these mountains are named for their brilliant red, yellow, white and purple rock, giving them the appearance of a vast earth toned rainbow.

A stunning array of colours in Mount Ediziza Provincial Park | Northern BC Tourism / Angela Percival

Slow Down and Savour

Flying over this natural wonder, I was struck by a unique-to-me feeling. I have been a professional endurance athlete for my entire adult life, running, climbing and skiing across mountain ranges around the world, rushing through and over snow, rock, trail and ice as quickly as possible, but for some reason Edziza was somewhere I wanted to slow down and savour. It felt that special. It’s a good thing that sentiment came over me early, because as we would soon find out: traveling across this land, there are no gimmes.

The Beaver touched us and our five days’ worth of food and gear down on Little Ball Lake at the head of the Little Iskut River at the southeastern end of the range. We instantly looked for a dry spot above the lake and set up camp as we swatted away mosquitos. I found a perfect spot facing out across the valley to the west overlooking the Boundary Range. On the other side of these mountains lies the Pacific Ocean and Juneau, Alaska, which put our location into geographical perspective and only added to the sense of smallness and vulnerability that crept over me as the plane took off.

Mineral-streaked mountains | Northern BC Tourism / Andrew Strain

During our time in Edziza, we did not see another human and we did not cross any trails. The rough scree, volcanic rock, bog, bugs, raging glacial fed rivers and creeks, high passes, as well as the late summer snowstorm and bone chilling rain made for at times challenging travel, but it also added to a truly unforgettable experience.

Despite feeling alone and vulnerable in the moment, we were awe-struck by the natural wonder around us and deeply moved to be able to experience a place in much the same state as the centuries of hunters, traders and travellers before us.

If you have the urge or itch for deep immersion in a place of incredible beauty, that is not quite inaccessible, but is slightly hard to get to, I would highly recommend visiting this gem of a park that has moved people for time immemorial.

BEFORE YOU GO
When you’re planning your outdoor excursions, always remember the Three Ts: Trip Planning, Training, and Taking the Essentials. Applying these safety tips can help reduce the risk and ensure your local outdoor adventures in BC are safe and responsible. For more information on how to hike safely, visit BC AdventureSmart.

GETTING THERE
The scale of The Great Wilderness can sometimes be hard to grasp. There are several gateways into these awe-inspiring lands. Starting on the West Coast of British Columbia, Prince Rupert is a Pacific Ocean port city accessible by both highway and BC Ferries. From here, you can travel north towards the Yukon and Alaska borders, or east towards the town of Terrace and northwestern BC. In the centre of BC, the outdoor-oriented city of Prince George is a base camp to the north, connecting to both Stewart-Cassiar Highway and Route 16. Those travelling into the Northern Rockies or to Tumbler Ridge can begin their trip at Dawson Creek (Mile 0 of the Alaska Highway), or further north in Fort St. John with frequent flights into the North Peace Regional Airport.