Nisg̱a'a Lands Auto Tour: A Journey through Nature and Culture

The Nisg̱a’a Lands Auto Tour is an 18-stop self-guided drive through the Nisg̱a’a Lands, also known as the Nass Valley, and Anhluut’ukwsim Laxmihl Angwinga’asanskwhl Nisg̱a’a (Nisg̱a’a Memorial Lava Bed Park). Blending spectacular natural wonders like hot springs and lava beds with cultural teachings from master carvers and storytellers, this 340-km (211-mile) out-and-back route allows you to learn about the lands and First Nations culture through the experiences of a welcoming, self-governed people.

Heading north from Terrace, Highway 113 winds through forests along the Kitsumkalum River and past Kitsumkalum Lake. At the 70 km (43 mile) mark, or about one hour from Terrace, the road reaches the turquoise waters of Lava Lake and the T’ooyaḵsiy̓ n̓iin (welcome sign), which lets visitors know they’ve reached Nisg̱a’a Lands and Waters that have been stewarded by the Nisg̱a’a since time immemorial, and who now fully manage this land.

Soon, visitors will spot the first imposing lava beds, which were formed about 300 years ago when the Tseax volcano erupted. Through interpretive panels, stories, and an introduction to the Nisg̱a’a language, you’ll also begin to gain insights into the vibrant Nisg̱a’a culture. Continuing along the highway, you can visit the tour stops in any order, disconnecting from the outside world as you hike across vast lava fields, visit forest-shaded waterfalls, gaze at snow-capped mountains, or soak in natural hot springs. Some stops might be brief, while others will offer opportunities for connection and learning.

The village of Gitwinksihlkw (New Aiyansh) on Nisg̱a'a Lands | Grant Harder

Stop 1: T’ooyaḵsiy̓ n̓iin (Welcome)
Anhluut’ukwsim Laxmihl Angwinga’asanskwhl Nisg̱a’a (Nisg̱a’a Memorial Lava Bed Park), is a 17,717-hectare park jointly run by the Nisg̱a’a Nation and BC Parks. Formed as part of the landmark Nisg̱a’a Final Agreement, the park preserves 32 km (20 miles) of lava beds and serves as a memorial to those who lost their lives in the land’s most recent volcanic explosions. Facilities include the Nisg̱a’a Visitor Centre, a 16-spot campground, picnic areas, and hiking trails.

Stop 2: Sii T’ax (Lava Lake)
Stretch your legs at the picnic site and wander down to the shore of the lake. Formed thousands of years ago when a glacier gouged a depression into the valley floor, Sii T’ax was altered when the Tseax volcano erupted. This is when molten lava flowed down toward the lake and dammed its stream, raising the water level and enlarging the picturesque body of water.

Stop 3: Ksi Wil Ksi-Baxhl Mihl (Crater Creek)
Not far past Lava Lake is a roadside parking lot and the start of a short interpretive trail. This 600-metre (1,969 feet) out-and-back trail winds through imposing hills of volcanic rubble covered in colourful lichen. Along the way, signs describe how new soil has formed and trees have begun to grow—a sign of the land slowly healing itself.

Vedder Falls on Nisg̱a'a Lands | Northern BC Tourism/Andrew Strain

Stop 4: Dihlaa Nil-Baxhl Aks Sbat-Gan (Drowned Forest)
Continuing along the highway, you’ll reach a place where the Tseax River floods in high water. Parking here is limited, but there are a couple of short trails that lead to a section of forest where deep potholes fill with clear, aquamarine river water, turning trees into islands.

Stops 5 and 6: Ts’itksim Aks (Beaupre Falls and Vetter Falls)
Both stops offer shaded hiking trails to picturesque ts’itksim aks, or waterfalls. At Vetter Falls, keep an eye out for steelhead trout with large heads and snake-like bodies, known locally as Phantom Fish. Trapped by the short stream which disappears under the lava 5 km (3 miles) downstream, the fish have evolved to take on these strange shapes.

Stop 7: Wilp T’aam Lax Sankw’ax (Visitor Centre)
Located a short distance off the highway on the road to the campground, Wilp T’aam Lax Sankw’ax is built in the style of a traditional Nisg̱a’a longhouse. Step inside to learn more about the Tseax eruption, which spilled molten rock northward across the valley toward Ḵ’alii-Aksim Lisims, (Nass River), and destroyed at least two Nisg̱a’a villages, claiming the lives of 2,000 community members.

Lava beds viewpoint from Saask Hill, Gitwinksihlkw | Northern BC Tourism/Mattias Fredriksson

Stop 9: Gitlax-t’aamiks
One of four Nisg̱a’a villages, Gitlax-t’aamiks is home to the “people of the ponds.” Take a moment to gaze at the four pts’aan, or totem poles, at the entrance to the Community Centre; these represent the heritage of the four Nisg̱a’a clans: G̱anada (Raven/Frog), Laxgibuu (Wolf), Gisk’aast (Killer Whale), and Laxsgiik (Eagle). Visitors can take a guided tour of the interpretive centre and see a replica of a traditional smokehouse or do a self-guided tour of the House of Laws.

Stop 11: Wil Luu-g̱alksi-mihl G̱an (Tree Cast)
For those who want to take a closer look at the lava flows, which are more diverse than you might expect, a five-minute walk through a lava bed resembling a cracked parking lot leads to a viewpoint featuring Wil Luu-g̱alksi-mihl G̱an. During the eruption, molten lava solidified around the trees that were here. After the trees burned or rotted away, they left behind these hollow tubes.

Stop 12: Gitwinksihlkw
Crossing Ḵ’alii-Aksim Lisims (Nass River), you’ll reach the village known as “place of the lizards.” According to oral tradition, large lizards lived here before the volcanic eruption. Home to the Bears’ Den pts’aan and Ukws-Ts’ag̱at, the 121-metre (396-foot) suspension bridge that was the only way into the village until the 1980s, there are several hikes leading out from the village. One hike will take you above town to a viewpoint looking over the plains of lava, another heads across the suspension bridge and alongside the river. Mountain bikers will also want to check out the Saasak’ Mountain Biking Trail Network.

The Aiyansh Hot Springs on Nisg̱a'a Lands | Northern BC Tourism/Mike Seehagel

Stop 14: Hlgu Isgwit(Hot Springs)
The dwelling place of Sbi Naxnok, a supernatural being/spirit. Visitors to this culturally significant hot spring and designated heritage site need to make advance reservations. Call 250-633-3000 weekdays from 9:30 am to 4:30 pm. Fees to protect and maintain the site are collected.

Stop 15: Laxg̱
Located almost 40 km (24 miles) down Ḵ’alii-Aksim Lisims (Nass River), from Gitwinksihlkw, the name Laxg̱alts’ap means “village on village” and recognizes how this modern village was built atop a series of Nisg̱a’a communities that occupied this site for millennia. While here, be sure to stop in at the carving shed to see a master carver at work and then head to Hli Goothl Wilp-Adokshl Nisg̱a’a to get a sense of the depth and history of the work you’ve seen.

Carver Calvin McNeil on the History, Culture and People of Nisga’a Lands

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Village of Gingolx in the Nisg̱a'a Nation | Grant Harder

Stop 16: Hli Goothl Wilp-Adokshl Nisg̱a’a (Nisg̱a’a Museum)
Also in Laxg̱alts’ap, Hli Goothl Wilp-Adokshl Nisg̱a’a, or “The Heart of Nisga’a House Crests,” opened in 2011 as part of the treaty agreement. The unique building was purpose-built to house over 300 ancestral belongings that were rematriated from Canadian and international museums. During a guided tour, visitors learn that the items in the museum are more than objects; they’re physical representations of the Nisg̱a’a culture. Belongings like the Wilps Ni’isjoohl memorial pole, chiefs’ headdresses, and ceremonial masks contain everything from moral lessons to spiritual teaching to information about the Nisg̱a’a way of life.

Stop 18: Gingolx
The last 29-km (18-mile) stretch of the road to Gingolx was completed in 2003, ending the village’s isolation. Translating to “place of skulls,” a historic warning to would-be invaders, the seaside village now takes pride in its hospitality. Considered a great base for kayaking or sport fishing, visitors can also stop in at the smokehouses to learn about the preparation of traditional foods or visit the longhouse and carving shed.

Northern Lights in Anhluut’ukwsim Laxmihl Angwinga’asanskwhl Nisg̱a'a (Nisg̱a'a Memorial Lava Bed Park) |

Plan Your Trip

A visit to the Nisg̱a’a Lands requires a bit of advance planning. While both Gitlaxt’aamiks and Laxg̱alts’ap have gas stations, restaurants and shopping options are more limited, and cell service can be patchy. Be sure to stock up and fuel up before leaving Terrace, and if you plan to stay overnight, make lodging or camping reservations in advance. When visiting the Auto Tour stops, be aware that the signage is often located right at each stop, and you don’t get much advance notice to slow down. Many of the stops on the tour are wheelchair accessible. While most trails are well-marked and fairly flat, you may find yourself walking on sharp, unstable rock, which can be very rough on bare feet and dog paws. Always remember to be respectful and responsible when visiting First Nations communities.

Plan Your Trip

GETTING HERE

The scale of The Great Wilderness can sometimes be hard to grasp. There are several gateways into these awe-inspiring lands. Starting on the West Coast of British Columbia, Prince Rupert is a Pacific Ocean port city accessible by both highway and BC Ferries. From here, you can travel north towards the Yukon and Alaska borders, or east towards the town of Terrace and northwestern BC. Further inland, the outdoor-oriented city of Prince George is a prime base camp to the north, connecting to both Stewart-Cassiar Highway and Route 16. Those travelling into the Northern Rockies or to Tumbler Ridge can begin their trip at Dawson Creek (Mile 0 of the Alaska Highway), or further north in Fort St. John with frequent flights into the North Peace Regional Airport.